FAQs

Answer

Let Step3 Electricians do it!

ELCB's (otherwise know as RCD's) are protective switches that "sense" the amount of current in the phase and neutral, if there is an imbalance then it can only be going to earth through an appliance or person. Imbalance causes the RCD/ELCB to trip or switch off immediately.

These are required in bathrooms and outside power power outlets, most new houses will have a minimum of two ELCB's protecting the entire house except for the hot water cylinders and some other fixed appliances.

If the ELCB keeps tripping there could potentially be a life threatening fault on the circuits covered by the RCD, you can call an Electrician or follow these quick fault finding tips.

1. Disconnect all appliances that are not working while the RCD is off. Thes may not be obvious, remember fridges, washing machines, dishwashers and waste disposers can all be plugged into the circuit.

2. The RCD usually is grouped with three other MCBs on the switchboard, turn these MCBs off and reset the RCD. If it stays on OK then start to reset one of the MCBs at a time, if each stays on try the next until the RCDtrips again. This is the circuit that is affected withthe fault.

3. If there are no appliances plugged in then call us.

Got Questions? Contact us through our "Ask a Question" page if you'd like to know more.

Answer

Flexible cable colours in the Australia, New Zealand standards (AS/NZS 3000:2007 3.8.3) are Brown for the Phase conductor, Blue for the nuetral and green/yellow for the earth.

Got Questions? Contact us through our "Ask a Question" page if you'd like to know more.

Answer

In New Zealand there are three types of lamps and control equipment in our fluorescent fittings. Control equipment comes in "ballasted" which has a "starter" that flickers during the initial start up of the lamp. Resonant Start which does not require a starter and Electronic Ballasts which use high frequency and do not require a starter. Fluorescent lamps are rated in wattage (the amount of light output) and colour. The wattage is determined by the length and the diameter. The lamps come in three basic sizes, T-5 (16mm diameter), T-8 (26mm) and T-12 (40mm). T-12 - This tube has a diameter of 40mm and is now not generally available in New Zealand. This used to be the most common diameter of tube fluorescent lamps (light bulbs). It is usually bi-pin (two pins on each end) and has a either resonant start or starter. It is available in a variety of lengths including a 600mm (2ft) 18-watt, a 900mm (3ft) 24Watt, a 1200mm (4ft) 36watt and a 1500mm (5ft) 58watt lamp.T-8 - This tube has replaced the T-12. It has a 26mm diameter, it is more energy-efficient and it gives off more light than the T-12. It is available in the same lengths as the T-12 and can retrofit to the older switched start (starter type) fluorescent fittings.T-5 - This tube is considerably more efficient than the T-8 and is currently used in a lot of commercial locations in New Zealand. It has a 16mm diameter and come in a variety of "colours". Each colour has it's own application, for instance the daylight lamp is good in Butchers shops to show off the health of the product.Daylight which casts a yellowish tone that simulates exterior sun conditions.Cool white - This is the most commonly used in commercial settings. It has a slightly bluish color. It is not recommended for residential use because it has a distortion that makes colors look washed out.Warm white - This bulb is recommended for residential use. It has a slightly pinkish color.Full spectrum - This bulb shows the truest color and is brighter than the cool white or warm white bulbs. By far T5 lamps are the most economic to run. There are many advantages to the use of T5 (16mm) lamp technology, these range from environmental aspects to improved performance and quality of light. T5 lamps are approximately 40% smaller than T8 lamps and almost 60% smaller than T12 lamps. T5 lamp has a low mercury content, so we are not addding to the landfill when we dispose of them. T5 lighting is currently a more cost-effective solution than similar LED lighting of comparable outputs. This is mainly due to the high capital upfront costs of the LED lamps. Let Step3 Electricians get it doneIn New Zealand there are three types of lamps and control equipment in our fluorescent fittings.

Control equipment comes in "ballasted" which has a "starter" that flickers during the initial start up of the lamp. Resonant Start which does not require a starter and Electronic Ballasts which use high frequency and also do not require a starter.

Fluorescent lamps are rated in wattage (the amount of light output) and colour. The wattage is determined by the length and the diameter. The lamps come in three basic sizes, T-5 (16mm diameter), T-8 (26mm) and T-12 (40mm).

T-12 - This tube has a diameter of 40mm and is now not generally available in New Zealand. This used to be the most common diameter of tube fluorescent lamps (light bulbs). It is usually bi-pin (two pins on each end) and has a either resonant start or starter. It is available in a variety of lengths including a 600mm (2ft) 18-watt, a 900mm (3ft) 24Watt, a 1200mm (4ft) 36watt and a 1500mm (5ft) 58watt lamp.

T-8 - This tube has replaced the T-12. It has a 26mm diameter, it is more energy-efficient and it gives off more light than the T-12. It is available in the same lengths as the T-12 and can retrofit to the older switched start (starter type) fluorescent fittings.

T-5 - This tube is considerably more efficient than the T-8 and is currently used in a lot of commercial locations in New Zealand. It has a 16mm diameter and come in a variety of "colours".

Each colour has it's own application, for instance the daylight lamp is good in Butchers shops to show off the health of the product. Daylight which casts a yellowish tone that simulates exterior sun conditions. Cool white - This is the most commonly used in commercial settings. It has a slightly bluish color. It is not recommended for residential use because it has a distortion that makes colors look washed out.

Full spectrum - This bulb shows the truest color and is brighter than the cool white or warm white bulbs.

By far T5 lamps are the most economic to run. There are many advantages to the use of T5 (16mm) lamp technology, these range from environmental aspects to improved performance and quality of light.

T5 lamps are approximately 40% smaller than T8 lamps and almost 60% smaller than T12 lamps.

T5 lamp has a low mercury content, so we are not addding to the landfill when we dispose of them. T5 lighting is currently a more cost-effective solution than similar LED lighting of comparable outputs. This is mainly due to the high capital upfront costs of the LED lamps.

Got Questions? Contact us through our "Ask a Question" page if you'd like to know more.

Answer

Green gunge (also known as green goo, slime or exudate) maybe seen coming out of the ends of older PVC insulated and sheathed cables installed in the 1960's and 70's. The the plasticiser that was used to provide flexibility in the PVC polymer compound (di-octyl phthalate) over time or with heat reacts with the copper conductors to produce copper phthalate (causing the green colour). The material does not present a health concern but should be handled with care – gloves should be used and waste disposed of properly. There does not appear to be a problem with the electrical performance or safety of the cable itself but any exuded goo should be removed as it can cause corrosion and will affect the action of switches and terminations. The cables should be replaced when insulation tests reveal failure or when cracking of the insulation becomes apparent. It is suggested on some web sites that in some cases, such as behind light switches or socket outlets, the amount of exudate can be reduced by forming a drip loop in the cables below the terminal. This is incorrect, the exudate uses the cable cores as a pipe line and drips from the end of the cable wether the cable is up or down. The removal of the exudate is important as it not only causes corrosion in the copper or other metal components, it also catalyses further degradation of the PVC and more of the PVC polymer release so that the whole process can "run away with itself". Eventually the cable insulation becomes brittle and subject to mechanical failure - low elongation at break, which is why Step3 Electricians recommends replacement f the cable when reported. Although it is likely to mean a hit in one,s pocket, the only really safe option is a rewire - wiping or cleaning the green gloop should only be a temporary fix sorting out the symptom but not the cause.

"Green gunge" (also known as green goo, slime or exudate) is the green liquid that may be seen coming out of the ends of older PVC insulated and sheathed cables installed in the 1960's and 70's.

The liquid is the plasticiser that was used to provide flexibility in the PVC polymer compound (di-octyl phthalate) leaches over time and, with heat, reacts with the copper conductors to produce copper phthalate (causing the green colour).

The material does not present a health concern but should be handled with care,contact with eyes and skin can cause irritation – gloves should be used and waste disposed of properly. There does not appear to be a problem with the electrical performance or safety of the cable itself but any exuded goo should be removed as it can cause corrosion and will cause the action of switches and terminations to be degraded or completely stop working. It can also cause high resistant joints which can lead to overheating and fire.

The cables should be replaced when insulation tests reveal failure or when cracking of the insulation becomes apparent.

It is suggested on some web sites that the amount of exudate can be reduced by forming a drip loop in the cables below the terminals behind light switches and socket outlets. This is incorrect, the exudate uses the cable cores as a pipe line and drips from the end of the cable whether the cable is up or down.

The removal of the exudate is important as it not only causes corrosion in the copper or other metal components, it also catalyses further degradation of the PVC. More of the PVC polymer releases so that the whole process can "run away with itself".

Eventually the cable insulation becomes brittle and subject to mechanical failure which is why Step3 Electricians recommends replacement f the cable when reported.

Although it is likely to mean a hit in your pocket, the only really safe option is a rewire - wiping or cleaning the green goo should only be a temporary fix sorting out the symptom but not the cause.

Got Questions? Contact us through our "Ask a Question" page if you'd like to know more.